Hanoi, Vietnam

The French influence grew clearly the farther north we traveled. Hanoi’s architecture reflected the style and colors of their occupation. This was the last place we would visit before returning to the US.

Our Airbnb was off a little side street, where outside we watched the locals set up food booths and stores in the morning and then slowly close up in the evenings. It was definitely not in a touristy part of town, it had a very local vibe.

We mapped out walking routes to some of Hanoi’s top sights. There was really so much to see and it was difficult to fit everything in. Our first stop was to meet Tony, who helped Alisa with the Alisa Cruise in Ha Long. We visited briefly about must-sees and he presented Alisa with a beautiful gift. He gave us directions to Café Giảng, one of the most famous traditional coffee shops in Hanoi, located on the east side of the Old Quarter. Here we enjoyed our first egg coffee. Egg coffee was first made in Hanoi during the 40's in the midst of the First Indochina war. A bartender named Nguyen Van Giang working at the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel attempted to overcome the milk shortage, caused by the war, by using egg whites. The outcome was nothing short of spectacular, enough to start his own coffee shop, the very same one where we slowly sipped the original recipe.

We started with the Hoa Lo Prison Relic, or better known as the Hanoi Hilton. It was built by the French to hold political prisoners, including Ho Chi Minh and later captured American soldiers during the Vietnam war. The photos on the wall depicted how nicely the Americans were treated, even celebrating Christmas in sweaters. The jumpsuit of John McCain is also displayed. They put up a memorial over the bridge for him.

The giant guillotine once used by the French is still on display. A grueling reminder of the occupation and invasion.

All of it was a little too meticulously constructed to portray how victimized the Vietnamese were and how they treated the Americans just the opposite.

Train street is just what it sounds like. The tracks are lined with bars selling snacks and cheap drinks, where kids pop open your beer and place the top on the track in hopes of finding a smashed cap as a souvenir. A few minutes before the train rolls in they warn everyone to stay back and vendors move their booths. We watched on a few occasions from our second story seats as strangers waved to each other. Yes, a very touristy place but still a cool experience, especially at night with all the lights.

Mural street is lined with hand painted works of art depicting life in Vietnam, some were truly impressive.

The $4.00 we spent on the 45 minute water puppet show provided reprieve from the afternoon heat and slight entertainment.

We tried so many different banh mi’s they all seemed to run together. The sandwiches are a fusion of French bread and slow cooked meat of all sorts. They're cheap and eaten all day. Pho (pronounced fa) was also plentiful with slightly less heat than in the south. We found an amazing Italian Pizza place, 4 P's, that served a pasta that Alisa swears was the closest to her Nani's sauce that she has ever tasted.

Staying in the Old Quarter was a blast. As the cool night replaces the humid evening, the lights and sounds welcome visitors from all over the world, enjoying a night out in the heart of Hanoi.

Ending our month-long stay in Vietnam culminated with a visit to one of the most vibrant cities we've ever visited. We could have spent the entire time there and would still have barely scratched the surface of its lively albeit rat filled streets.

As we arrived at the airport to leave, we realized we actually overstayed our visa. The customs guard just asked for a bribe which we had to pay in cash, no receipt, just a stamp. I will never forget the wonderful people we've met and the shady secrets yet to be discovered in your dark alleyways.

Our month-long journey through Vietnam, starting in the south and ending in the north, was an unforgettable experience and one neither of us will soon forget.